Cutting board oil - Bucher block oil:
Before using the new butcher block, it is first prevented to prevent food odors and bacterial staining and absorption. Proper surface treatment is important to prevent the growth of bacteria and/or mold on the new owner. The wood surface needs an oil that can be reused to fill the wood pores and repel food particles, liquids, and oils. Do not use any vegetable oils or cooking oils to treat or finish cutting surfaces as the wood will corrode the corrupted oily taste.
USP grade mineral oil is a popular choice because it is the cheapest pure food grade oil you can buy (do not use vegetable oil or olive oil because they may deteriorate). Mineral oil remains safe throughout its life cycle. There are various oils available for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Some are called "butcher block facings" or "mysterious oil." Save some money by visiting local hardware or pharmacies and buying mineral oil (not mineral essential oil - this is paint thinner).
When the word “food safety completed” is seen in the description of wood products, it usually means that mineral oil is used. Just wipe the mineral oil on the cardboard surface and take care to soak. When wood does not absorb oil any more, wipe off excess oil with a clean, dry cloth. Don't worry about applying too much oil - better.
Beeswax is usually added to mineral oil and walnut oil to provide a tougher surface. For centuries, beeswax has been used for waterproofing and sealing materials from baskets to fabrics, as well as for the preservation of foodstuffs and other perishable materials, including wood. It will make the wood waterproof (but not waterproof) and help protect the wood surface from wear and abrasion. It will also make the wood surface feel good and leave a soft, sweet aroma. Simply scrape about 1/2 teaspoon of beeswax into a microwave safe plate with a glass of mineral oil; the microwave is about 45 seconds high. Apply to cutting board or butcher block while keeping warm.
Beeswax Topcoat - Beeswax topcoat is an optional accessory in the rework process, but it is well worth it. Beeswax sits on the surface of the wood, and the oil immersed in the wood is different. Therefore, beeswax fills pores and crevices that thin oil cannot bridge. This helps prevent moisture, bacteria and other contaminants from entering the wood surface. To finish the application, simply wipe it dry with a clean rag. Beeswax is a soft paste with similar consistency to shoe polish. Used cloth can be easily wiped off the excess finish. Once dried for a period of time, it can be polished to luster.
Walnut oil or almond oil - these are all natural oils and are one of the few oils that are not as easily corrupted as other oils. However, all vegetable oils will eventually be corrupted. I personally do not recommend using these oils. These oils can be used at grocery stores and some mail-order carpentry supply stores. Note: If anyone in your family is allergic to nuts or nut products, do not use these oils.
coconut oil. I have recently done some research and experiments and found that food grade coconut oil/butter is also very good. I also used it to season my cast iron pans and pans. Coconut oil is one of the most stable oils and has a strong resistance to rancidity. Because of the high proportion of saturated fat, it is stable. Coconut oil has a shelf life of two years or longer and does not have to be refrigerated. Coconut oil should avoid direct sunlight. If you live in a hot climate, I recommend storing unused coconut oil in the refrigerator.
Use oil: Heat the oil slightly before applying it to the meat. Use a soft cloth to apply oil in the direction of the grain and soak the oil between each of the four or five layers required for the initial seasoning. After each treatment, wait for about four to six hours, then wipe off any oil that has not been immersed in the wood (approximately 6 hours for oxidized or hardened oils). Monthly refueling of butcher blocks as needed.